Tags: Waikato

AccessWaikatoKinloch

Climbing at Kinloch K1 crag not recommended

The Kinloch K1 crag sits on a section of Maori land called the Whangamata No. 3 block, owned by an Ahu Whenua Trust. Over the past year, ACAT has been working with one of the Trustees to resolve issues around a wāhi tapu site at the crag. Unfortunately, there has been some disagreement within the wider owners’ group as to whether the land should...
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WaikatoDonationsWaipari

Donate to the Waipari fund

Please donate to ACAT’s Waipari crag fund – every dollar will go directly to improving access and the crag environment.  Any excess funds received will be held for future Waipari projects. Following our initial success when the property was sold, we are still working with Merry and Emma to create a permanent climbing access right at Waipari...
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AccessWaikatoWaipari

Froggatt Edge future access preserved following farm sale

Although the Aotearoa Climbing Access Trust is still being formally established, it has already faced its first challenge – the sale of the Froggatt Edge farm. I am stoked to announce the Trust’s first success – we have reached an understanding with the farm purchaser to ensure that climbing at Froggatt Edge can remain open to climbers for...
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AccessWaikatoKawakawa Bay

Guidelines for camping at Kawakawa Bay

Excited for a weekend away at Kawakawa Bay? Who wouldn’t be! But remember it’s crucial that we behave respectfully, leave no trace, and keep climbing access open.  The campsite and many of the cliffs are on DOC or Iwi land, with Iwi co-governance, and there is no formally established agreement for camping or climbing activities. That means...
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AccessWaikatoWaipari

Meet the new owners of Waipari / Froggatt Edge

You may have heard about the sale of the “Froggatt Edge” crag last year. The new owners would like to introduce themselves and they have some important things to say, as both climbers and now landowners. Crag visitors, please read the following carefully. ACAT looks forward to working closely with Emma and Merry in the future. Welcome to...
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AccessWaikatoPakeho

Pakeho crag is closed

We are gutted to announce that Pakeho crag has been indefinitely closed for climbing. Pakeho is a beautiful limestone sport climbing area in the Waitomo district. Pakeho was re-opened in 2017 with assistance from ACAT’s GM Edwin Sheppard and volunteer Michael Donovan (well before ACAT existed). Since then, thousands of climbers have enjoyed...
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AccessWaikatoPakeho

Progress on Pakeho crag

ACAT has been working behind the scenes toward re-opening Pakeho crag, and has recently signed a Memorandum of Understanding with the landowners and started re-bolting the crag to remove safety issues. Pakeho is a beautiful limestone crag in the Waitomo area popular with beginner-intermediate climbers and instruction groups. It was closed in 2022...
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AccessWaikato

Rock climbing permitted in Waikato under alert level 3 step 1

The government has announced that Waikato’s alert level 3 restrictions will ease tonight to match the greater freedoms seen in Auckland – called Alert Level 3 Step 1. The current level 3 boundary will remain. Read about the announcement here: Live Covid-19 updates: Everything you need to know on 27 October This means that from 11.59pm on 27...
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AccessWaikatoKinloch

Wāhi tapu site and closed climbs at Kinloch K1

ACAT and local climbers have been discussing climbing at Kinloch with the Trust representing the landowners. We are excited to finally be talking with the right people and forging a positive connection between climbers and iwi in the area. Many thanks to Taupō locals Anthea and Michael for making these connections. For several years there has...
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AccessWaikatoWhanganui Bay

Whanganui Bay opens for 2022 trial season

After over 5 years of closure, ACAT is stoked to announce that climbing at Whanganui Bay is now possible again under a trial climbing season. Whanganui Bay is one of the North Islandʻs premiere crags, with a mix of quality sport and trad on compact ignimbrite, and a climbing history reaching back into the 1970s. Its north-facing and sheltered...
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AccessWaikatoWharepapa Rock

Wharepapa Rock / Castle Rock access update

Wharepapa Rock remains open subject to the entry conditions below. However the farm has recently been sold again, less than a year after its last sale. The new owner took possession in December 2021. Access remains tenuous – ACAT will provide updates as soon as any further information is available.The crag continues to be managed by Sheena...
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AccessWaikatoWharepapa Rock

Wharepapa Rock / Castle Rock to remain open under trial

Over the past three months the Aotearoa Climbing Access Trust (ACAT) has been in access discussions with the new owner of prominent Waikato crag Wharepapa / Castle Rock, Bryan Heapy. We are now pleased to announce that climbing access will remain open under a trial period arrangement as from 1 April 2021 onwards. Bryan will...
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