Tags: Access

AccessWaikatoWharepapa Rock

Wharepapa Rock cleanup done but access threatened by non-payment of fees

Cleanup work after the 2023 tree fall damage is now mostly complete, and the crag is seeing considerable traffic – but future access remains uncertain because many climbers are not registering or paying the crag access fee. Recent observations of climber numbers at the crag vs registrations suggest that only a small minority of recreational...
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AccessWaikatoPakeho

Pakeho Crag re-opening project update

Since ACAT signed an MOU with the Pakeho landowners in January, Chris Hailey has been leading an epic community effort to get the crag ready for re-opening.  The main job has been re-bolting the existing routes with glue-in 316-grade stainless steel eye-bolts, so we can assure the landowners that all climbs have been safety-checked and the...
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AccessWaikatoKinloch

Climbing at Kinloch K1 crag not recommended

The Kinloch K1 crag sits on a section of Maori land called the Whangamata No. 3 block, owned by an Ahu Whenua Trust. Over the past year, ACAT has been working with one of the Trustees to resolve issues around a wāhi tapu site at the crag. Unfortunately, there has been some disagreement within the wider owners’ group as to whether the land should...
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AccessWaikatoPakeho

Progress on Pakeho crag

ACAT has been working behind the scenes toward re-opening Pakeho crag, and has recently signed a Memorandum of Understanding with the landowners and started re-bolting the crag. Pakeho is a beautiful limestone crag in the Waitomo area popular with beginner-intermediate climbers and instruction groups. It was closed in 2022 for reasons including...
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NorthlandAccessWairere Boulders

Introducing the Wairere Boulders - Northland’s best-kept secret

Wairere Boulders, one of the best bouldering areas in the North Island, can finally be publicised after a change of ownership. Wairere Boulders is a privately owned farm and nature reserve located a few hours north of Auckland, with the basalt boulders on this farm offering some of the best bouldering in the North Island. With more than 50...
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AccessBay of PlentyMangorewa Gorge

Mangorewa Gorge crag interim closure notice

ACAT and the Rotorua Climbing Club are consulting with DOC and iwi about the future of the crag. Key details:  Please consider Mangorewa Gorge crag CLOSED and refrain from climbing there until further notice.  The access track to the river remains open for walking and swimming purposes. Note that this track crosses private land...
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AccessWaikatoKinloch

Wāhi tapu site and closed climbs at Kinloch K1

ACAT and local climbers have been discussing climbing at Kinloch with the Trust representing the landowners. We are excited to finally be talking with the right people and forging a positive connection between climbers and iwi in the area. Many thanks to Taupō locals Anthea and Michael for making these connections. For several years there has...
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AccessAucklandAGS Rockwall

AGS Rockwall / Mt Eden Quarry update

We get more inquiries about the status of the Quarry than any other crag, demonstrating the strength and scale of passion in the community for this crag even after 6 years of closure. It’s difficult to provide a meaningful update during an active access negotiation where there is no guarantee of success. However, we will do our best to say what...
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AccessWest CoastTuriwhate

Turiwhati crag opens in Westland

Westland’s newest rock climbing area is very much alpine sport climbing that fits with the rugged landscape. Clean, fine-grained granite soaked in evening sun, with a little alpine vegetation to dry your fingers on.  Generously coined the ‘Yosemite of Te Tai Poutini’, the Turiwhati climbing project now sports 13 bolted pitches. Routes...
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AccessWaikatoPakeho

Pakeho crag is closed

We are gutted to announce that Pakeho crag has been indefinitely closed for climbing. Pakeho is a beautiful limestone sport climbing area in the Waitomo district. Pakeho was re-opened in 2017 with assistance from ACAT’s GM Edwin Sheppard and volunteer Michael Donovan (well before ACAT existed). Since then, thousands of climbers have enjoyed...
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AccessLegislationWest Coast

Read our submission on West Coast stewardship land reclassification

We have submitted our opinion on the proposals set out in DOC’s Westland stewardship land reclassification consultation document, which affects 504 pieces of stewardship land on the West Coast. There are over 3000 pieces of stewardship land across the country – ACAT’s primary concern is to ensure that recreational access to and across...
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AccessWaikatoWhanganui Bay

Whanganui Bay opens for 2022 trial season

After over 5 years of closure, ACAT is stoked to announce that climbing at Whanganui Bay is now possible again under a trial climbing season. Whanganui Bay is one of the North Islandʻs premiere crags, with a mix of quality sport and trad on compact ignimbrite, and a climbing history reaching back into the 1970s. Its north-facing and sheltered...
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AccessWaikatoKawakawa Bay

Guidelines for camping at Kawakawa Bay

Excited for a weekend away at Kawakawa Bay? Who wouldn’t be! But remember it’s crucial that we behave respectfully, leave no trace, and keep climbing access open.  The campsite and many of the cliffs are on DOC or Iwi land, with Iwi co-governance, and there is no formally established agreement for camping or climbing activities. That means...
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AccessAucklandLegislation

New crag? Read ACAT’s submission on the Waitipu Park plan

The old Waitakere Quarry on Te Henga Rd contains basalt walls with good climbing potential. Auckland Council is creating a new public park in the quarry (Waitipu Park), and ACAT has lodged a submission advocating for rock climbing to be permitted. You can read ACAT’s full submission (including more photos). This was a one-time opportunity to...
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AccessLegislation

ACAT’s submission on climbing access to stewardship land

Stewardship land covers 9% of New Zealand’s landmass. It includes several climbing areas including Mt Somers and the Remarkables Ranges. ACAT has been advocating on behalf of the climbing community to ensure that climbing access is protected in these areas. There are over 3000 individual blocks of stewardship land and the government...
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AccessSouthland

Progress on the Milford Opportunities Project

ACAT has received confirmation that we, along with NZAC and other recreational advocacy groups, will be invited to join an advisory group providing input on development of the Milford Opportunities masterplan. The Milford Opportunities Project aims to create a new masterplan for Milford Sound Piopiotahi, the Milford corridor and the region...
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AccessWaikatoWharepapa Rock

Wharepapa Rock / Castle Rock access update

Wharepapa Rock remains open subject to the entry conditions below. However the farm has recently been sold again, less than a year after its last sale. The new owner took possession in December 2021. Access remains tenuous – ACAT will provide updates as soon as any further information is available.The crag continues to be managed by Sheena...
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AccessLegislation

Read ACAT’s submission on the Adventure Activities Regulations changes

On 5 November 2021, ACAT made a detailed submission on proposed changes to the Adventure Activities Regulations, on behalf of the recreational climbing community. The Regulation changes have been proposed by the Ministry of Business Innovation & Employment (MBIE), in response to the White Island catastrophe in 2019. They are intended to...
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AccessWaikato

Rock climbing permitted in Waikato under alert level 3 step 1

The government has announced that Waikato’s alert level 3 restrictions will ease tonight to match the greater freedoms seen in Auckland – called Alert Level 3 Step 1. The current level 3 boundary will remain. Read about the announcement here: Live Covid-19 updates: Everything you need to know on 27 October This means that from 11.59pm on 27...
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AccessLegislation

Access alert – Adventure Activities Regulation changes

If you are passionate about adventure activities or wish to have a say about about the potential impact on recreational climbing access, please make a submission on MBIE’s Adventure Activity – Keeping it Safe proposals. Overview New, stricter regulations are proposed in relation to Adventure Activities.  This includes...
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